Reference – BFCA (Broadcast Film Critics Association) – CDG (Costume Designers Guild)

• 1 – Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom (Netflix) – BAFTA, BFCA, CDG Ann Roth

• 2 – Emma. (Focus Features) – BAFTA, BFCA, CDG Alexandra Byrne

• 3 – Mank (Netflix) – BAFTA, BFCA, CDG Trish Summerville

• 4 – Mulan (Walt Disney Pictures) – BFCA, CDG Bina Daigeler

• 5 – Pinocchio (Roadside Attractions) – CDG Massimo Cantini Parrini

*Wins in bold.

We are about to see a legend in costume designing win her second Oscar and become the 2nd oldest winner in history. James Ivory was also 89 but he was three months older when he won his Oscar. I know, I wish Ivory was 4 months younger, too. THE oldest just sounds so much better. Oh, this is Ann Roth we’re talking about for ‘Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom’!

6/10 of the winners of the past ten years won Costume Design with a Best Picture nomination attached to the winning film. So, you don’t NEED a Best Picture nomination in order to win Costume Design. Maybe it slightly helps, but that’s as far as it goes. ‘Mank’ is the only Best Picture nominee here but I can’t see it winning. It’s very dependent on what has showy costumes and sometimes showy films aren’t Best Picture films.

‘Ma Rainey’s Black Bottom’ has dominated the awards precursors, winning everywhere it could. I’d say ‘Emma.’ is on a very similar level to what ‘Ma Rainey” is doing with costume designing so I’m surprised to see it sweep the season. Not that I think this is a bad thing, Roth helped turn Viola Davis and the rest of the ensemble crew into Ma Rainey and the Seasoned Georgia Jazz Band, a group of people known for having a particular style to them, so that’s no small feat.

Whilst I think there’s a 90% chance ‘Ma Rainey” wins here, I still think the 10% chance of an upset is split between ‘Emma.’ and ‘Mulan’. Remember when I said “showy”? Yeah, that’s how I’d describe ‘Mulan’s’ costumes, From costumes with sleeves so long they could be a cape, to soldiers wearing golden armour, I wonder if some voters can resist. Then we have ‘Emma.’, where we have seven time nominee and winner for ‘Elizabeth: The Golden Age’, Alexandra Byrne, in charge of costumes. If names were attached to these ballots I think we’d have a completely different game. With two well respected costume designers in the race, I think it would turn into a game of ‘vote for our favourite great’ rather than ‘vote for the best’. But, names aren’t on ballots and even if they were, Roth is so loved and respected by her fellow peers I think she will easily win.